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Wednesday, October 16, 2024

13 best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin, according to experts

Whether it’s from impatiently popping a pimple (of which I am very guilty) or from scars left behind after a breakout, I’ve come to accept that dark spots are an inevitable part of my life. As someone with darker skin, addressing hyperpigmentation and discoloration are a common part of my routine, so I asked three dermatologists about the best ways to get a more even complexion.

Read on for guidance from three board-certified dermatologists: Dr. Michelle Henry, a cosmetic surgeon and head of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery in NYC, Dr. Hope Mitchell, expert in hyperpigmentation and skin of color with over 20 years of experience and lead of Mitchell Dermatology in Ohio, and Dr. Nkem Ugonabo, a specialist in cosmetic dermatology at Union Derm in NYC . I also rounded up a list of the best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin according to their advice and suggestions, along with some of my own personal picks.

SKIP AHEAD What is hyperpigmentation? | How I picked the best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin | The best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin | How to shop for hyperpigmentation products | Why trust NBC Select?

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is any dark spot or patch of skin that’s darker than the surrounding area, usually due to an excess stimulation of melanin, says Henry. According to Ugonabo and Mitchell, causes of hyperpigmentation can vary depending on the type of dark spot. “Common causes include inflammation, such as from acne, eczema, or injury, hormonal changes like melasma, sun exposure, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is common after skin conditions or trauma,” says Mitchell.

Hyperpigmentation is more common in people with darker skin tones due to the naturally higher amount of active melanocytes, which are cells that produce melanin, and melanosomes, the part of the cell where melanin is made and stored, in our skin. “These organelles are distributed more densely and more thoroughly throughout the epidermis,” says Henry. “Therefore, when you encounter trauma or inflammation as a person with a darker skin type, your skin is more likely to stimulate excess melanin production.” Mitchell adds that those with darker skin are more prone to hyperpigmentation from even minor skin injuries and irritations.

How I picked the best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin

Using expert guidance, I rounded up the best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin, including recommendations from the dermatologists I consulted, NBC Select staff picks, and more. A range of product types is included, and each of them contain key ingredients to target hyperpigmentation.

  • Type: Hyperpigmentation products come in a variety of formulas, many of which can be used together in order to better treat discoloration. Ugonabo says she typically employs “a combination approach” when treating hyperpigmentation, which includes a mixture of sun protection and topical/chemical treatments. Following this guidance, my list includes cleansers, treatments/serums, moisturizers and SPF products.
  • Key ingredients: All three dermatologists recommend products with ingredients that have lightening or brightening properties, including vitamin C, niacinamide, and a number of exfoliating acids. Products made with these ingredients are included in the below list. Read the how to shop section for more information on which ingredients to look for (and avoid) when shopping.

The best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin in 2024

Cleansers

Best overall cleanser for hyperpigmentation: La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar Brightening Deep Cleanser

What we like

  • Foams well
  • Good for sensitive skin

Something to note

  • Not suitable for drier skin

Mitchell likes this cleanser from La Roche-Posay because it “contains exfoliating agents that help to brighten skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots over time.” It uses lipo-hydroxy acid (LHA), a derivative of salicylic acid, to exfoliate the skin and glycerin, a humectant, to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier. The cleanser also has a cream to foam formula that cleanses without stripping the skin, and is suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin, according to the brand.

Size: 16 oz

Best for dry skin: Cerave Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser

What we like

  • Cream to foam formula
  • Very hydrating
  • Large size

To treat hyperpigmentation or keep it at bay, Mitchell says keeping the skin moisturized and maintaining a healthy skin barrier are key. Cerave makes some of our staff’s favorite cleansers (including the one I use in my daily routine), and Mitchell suggests this option for gently yet effectively removing dirt and oil from your face. The cleanser’s cream-to-foam formula transforms once lathered with water, and its ceramides- and hyaluronic acid-infused formula helps to lock in hydration, according to the brand.

Size: 16 fl oz

Serums and treatments

Best daily hyperpigmentation treatment: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

What we like

  • Gentle formula
  • Can be used daily
  • Controls oil

Something to note

  • Nothing to note at this time

This exfoliant from Paula’s Choice has been a key part of my daily routine for years — it keeps my oily skin from getting greasy during the day, and helps to prevent breakouts. Mitchell says that it’s “ideal for hyperpigmentation,” and is great for helping to fade dark spots, unclog pores, and even out skin tone. It uses salicylic acid to exfoliate and humectants and antioxidants to hydrate and protect the skin, which in turn helps boost the absorption and efficacy of the salicylic acid, according to the brand.

Size: 4 fl oz

Best overall hyperpigmentation treatment: Hyper Skin Brightening Dark Spot Serum

What we like

  • Works with all skin types
  • Can be used morning or night
  • Non-greasy feel

Something to note

  • Nothing to note at this time

This brightening serum, which Mitchell recommends, is stacked with brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, and turmeric, according to the brand. The turmeric, along with salicylic acid, also acts as an anti-inflammatory agent that helps to heal and reduce breakouts. This serum is best applied to the entire face (not as a spot treatment), and should be followed up with moisturizer and sunscreen, according to the brand.

Size: 1 fl oz

Most versatile hyperpigmentation serum: La Roche-Posay Mela-B3 Serum

What we like

  • Versatile use
  • Non-greasy
  • Non comedogenic formula

All three experts recommend this serum from La Roche-Posay, which Mitchell says contains glycolic acid, kojic acid, and thermal water “to help exfoliate and reduce pigmentation.” The serum is formulated to target hyperpigmentation from a range of different causes, including age spots, acne scars and sunspots, according to the brand. This makes it a great option for those looking to address multiple types of hyperpigmentation. It also has a non- comedogenic formula, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Size: 1 fl oz

Best gentle treatment: Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster

What we like

  • Gentle formula
  • Lightweight texture
  • Can mix with other products

Something to note

  • Nothing to note at this time

This concentrated booster serum “helps fade dark spots, improve skin texture, and reduce discoloration by regulating melanin production,” says Mitchell. It has niacinamide to brighten the skin and boost your moisture barrier, and antioxidants like licorice root to soothe and protect skin from free radicals, like sunlight (UV rays) and air pollution. It also has a very light, liquid formula that can easily blend into your favorite moisturizer or serum.

Size: 0.67 fl oz

Editor’s pick: Topicals Faded Serum

What we like

  • Quick results
  • Lightweight formula
  • Creamy texture

I tried this serum with two of my colleagues — NBC Select associate reporter Bianca Alvarez and NBC Select commerce editor Lindsay Schneider — and loved the results. In three weeks, I saw improvement in scars that I’d had (and tried to treat) for over a month beforehand. This serum has a cream-like texture and uses kojic and azelaic acid to brighten the skin, along with niacinamide to help reduce oil production, which helps stop breakouts that may cause further hyperpigmentation. Check out our full review here.

Size: 1.7 oz

Best for fine lines: No7 Lift & Luminate Triple Action Serum

What we like

  • Good for aging skin
  • Can be used twice daily
  • Non-drying

Something to note

  • Nothing to note at this time

This serum comes recommended by Mitchell for those looking to “improve firmness, and smooth the appearance of fine lines” along with addressing hyperpigmentation. She also likes its brightening formula, which has fruit extracts and vitamin C to target pigmentation and even skin tone, according to the brand. This serum can be used both in the morning and evening, and has an oil-free, non-drying texture.

Size: 1.69 fl oz

Best nighttime treatment: Cerave Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment

What we like

  • Hydrating formula
  • Safe for sensitive skin

This dark spot corrector from Cerave has glycolic and lactic acid to exfoliate skin and improve texture and discoloration, according to the brand. As with all Cerave products, it’s also formulated with essential ceramides to protect the skin’s moisture barrier. Mitchell suggests this treatment for daily use because of its gentle formula — it’s also non-comedogenic, fragrance free, and suitable for all skin types, according to Cerave.

Size: 1.7 oz

Moisturizers

Best overall moisturizer for hyperpigmentation: CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion

What we like

  • Great for oily skin
  • Soothing formula
  • Lightweight

Something to note

  • May not work for drier skin

Mitchell suggests this moisturizer, which she says is “excellent for dark skin prone to hyperpigmentation,” because it contains niacinamide and ceramides. These ingredients are great for calming inflammation and repairing the skin barrier, and can help to calm active breakouts that may lead to further dark spots. It’s also our favorite night cream for oily/acne-prone skin.

Size: 16 oz

Best gel moisturizer: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel

What we like

  • Oil-free
  • Lightweight formula

Something to note

  • Nothing to note at this time

This gel-cream moisturizer has a lightweight texture yet still gives the hydration of a much thicker, heavier cream. Its thinner formula “hydrates the skin deeply without clogging pores, which helps prevent irritation that can lead to dark spots,” says Mitchell. It uses hyaluronic acid to help your skin retain water, and is also oil-free and noncomedogenic.

Size: 1.7 fl oz

Sunscreens

Best overall SPF for hyperpigmentation: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46

What we like

  • Great for sensitive skin
  • Absorbs quickly
  • No white cast

Henry suggests this sunscreen from EltaMD, which is also our pick for best overall sunscreen. NBC Select updates editor Mili Godio is a big fan of the formula, which she says is the only one that doesn’t irritate her sensitive skin. It uses niacinamide to help soothe inflammation and sodium hyaluronate to maintain hydration, according to the brand. The oil- and fragrance-free mineral formula is also great for rosacea and acne-prone skin because it doesn’t absorb into the skin, and is also noncomedogenic.

Size: 1.7 oz

Best for sensitive skin: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk Sunscreen SPF 100

What we like

  • High SPF
  • Good for sensitive skin
  • Gentle formula

La Roche Posay’s Anthelios line has become a staple in my routine, and Mitchell recommends this sunscreen for “broad-spectrum protection with a lightweight, hydrating formula.” The sunscreen has an SPF of 100, making it great for sensitive skin that burns easily. It’s also unscented and oil-free, and contains antioxidants to protect the skin from free radicals, according to the brand.

Size: 3 fl oz

Best for oily skin: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Lotion SPF 50

According to Mitchell, this sunscreen is “ideal for daily use to prevent hyperpigmentation from worsening due to UV exposure.” It moisturizes skin without leaving a greasy feel, and has a formula that, when combined with its lightweight texture, makes it great for oily skin. This sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection and uses glycerin and hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, according to the brand.

Size: 3 fl oz

How to shop for hyperpigmentation products for dark skin

To help you choose the best hyperpigmentation products for dark skin, I compiled a checklist of what to look for and avoid:

Ingredients to look for

The following ingredients help to treat hyperpigmentation in dark skin, according to experts:

  • Vitamin C: Mitchell recommends this antioxidant for its many functions, which includes “stimulating collagen production, brightening the skin, and fighting free radical damage caused by sun exposure. Like Kojic acid, it reduces hyperpigmentation by blocking melanin production,” she says.
  • Niacinamide: Niacinamide helps reduce inflammation, regulate melanin production, and improve the skin barrier by blocking the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes, according to Henry. Mitchell also says that it can be safely combined with other ingredients like retinoids and exfoliants.
  • Hydroquinone: According to Ugonabo, hydroquinone is a very potent skin lightener. However, it’s currently prescription-only, and Mitchell warns that “it should be used cautiously, and often under the guidance of a dermatologist due to potential side effects with long-term use.” She also cautions against using hydroquinone with benzoyl peroxide, which she says can stain the skin.
  • Retinoids: Mitchell calls retinoids “a go-to ingredient for hyperpigmentation.” According to her, they help inhibit melanogenesis (which is the process of melanin production) by encouraging cell turnover and reducing melanosome transfer, which brings “healthier, newer skin cells to the surface while ​exfoliating older, darker ones, helping to fade hyperpigmentation faster.” Retinoids also help prevent new spots from forming and allows for better penetration of other ingredients, she says. However, both Mitchell and Henry warn against using retinoids with strong acids, like glycolic or salicylic acids, since they can cause irritation when mixed at higher concentrations.
  • Arbutin: A natural derivative of hydroquinone derived from the bearberry plant, Mitchell says that arbutin helps to inhibit tyrosinase, which is an enzyme involved in melanin production. “It is potentially less irritating than hydroquinone but still effective,” she says.
  • Kojic Acid: According to Mitchell, kojic acid ​is a byproduct of the fermentation of certain species of fungi or yeast. She says that, similar to vitamin C, kojic acid also reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase enzymes, helping to lighten dark spots over time.
  • Azelaic Acid: This ingredient has anti-inflammatory properties and ​can suppress melanin production in the skin, according to Mitchell. She says that it “helps reduce hyperpigmentation, while being gentle enough for sensitive skin”.
  • Niacinamide: Niacinamide or vitamin B3, blocks the transfer of melanin to skin cells, according to Henry. This ingredient is generally considered safe for sensitive skin, and Mitchell says it is commonly used with vitamin C and kojic acid.
  • Cysteamine: This is a naturally-occurring ingredient found in highest concentration in human milk, says Mitchell. It’s a powerful antioxidant with multiple effects on melanogenesis, including working as a tyrosinase inhibitor and inhibitor of melanosome transfer.
  • Glycolic Acid​: Mitchell says that glycolic acid can help to loosen the bonds in the top layer of the skin, which assists in improved product penetration.
  • Mandelic Acid​: M​andelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used in chemical peels, but it can also be found in over-the-counter cosmetics, and is especially useful in reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, according to Mitchell.
  • Tranexamic acid (TXA): This ingredient can be used as an oral or topical treatment by dermatologists, and helps to block the transfer of melanin to skin cells, according to Mitchell.

Ingredients to avoid

Dermatologists recommend avoiding harsh ingredients that may cause inflammation or irritation, which is especially common in people with darker skin who are more prone to PIH. They include:

  • Fragrance, harsh exfoliants, and alcohol-based products.
  • Aggressive overuse of certain ingredients for treating hyperpigmentation. For example, Mitchell says that overusing hydroquinone without breaks can lead to issues like ochronosis, which is a condition especially in darker skin tones where the skin turns to a dark, blue-black.

Sun protection

All three dermatologists emphasize the importance of sun protection in treating hyperpigmentation in dark skin. “The most important thing is strict sun protection with a broad-spectrum sunscreen,” says Ugonabo. She suggests incorporating products with an SPF of at least 30, such as sunscreen moisturizer or tinted sunscreens. She particularly likes tinted sunscreens, which she says contains iron oxides, an ingredient that’s been shown to give additional protection against light damage.

Meet our experts

At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.

  • Dr. Michelle Henry is a board-certified dermatologist, cosmetic surgeon and head of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery in NYC.
  • Dr. Hope Mitchell is a board-certified dermatologist specializing in hyperpigmentation and skin of color with over 20 years of experience, and lead of Mitchell Dermatology in Ohio
  • Dr. Nkem Ugonabo is a specialist in cosmetic dermatology at Union Derm in NYC.

Why trust NBC Select?

I am an associate SEO reporter at NBC Select covering wellness and lifestyle who’s previously written stories on the best night creams, acne spot treatments, and more. To learn more about hyperpigmentation for dark skin, I spoke to three dermatologists to find out everything you need to know, including the best ingredients, product recommendations, and shopping guidance.

Catch up on NBC Select’s in-depth coverage of personal finance, tech and tools, wellness and more, and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and TikTok to stay up to date.



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