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Tuesday, October 8, 2024

Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: Foxy Lounge’s 24k gold leaf pizza, white snail caviar and cats’ poop coffee add up to substanceless showoffery

Some people will enjoy the bling aesthetic of new Foxy Lounge in D4, but the menu needs an overhaul says our critic

The Foxy Flair Pizza, topped with breasola beef, truffle burrata, mozzarella, baby basil, black truffle and 24k gold, is €46. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan

Whatever sympathy I might have in my heart for chefs and restaurateurs quickly fades when, following a poor experience, I’m faced with a hefty bill. It brings me down to earth, rapidly reminding me that my responsibility is to you, the readers, and not to the restaurant.

I was at the new Foxy Lounge restaurant on a slip road in Donnybrook, which seats 16 to 20 in front of an open-counter kitchen, in a container-like room with exciting views of the side wall of a Circle K garage and an artificial grass terrace out front. It’s the venture of Eva Liang Tang, new to the tough world of hospitality, and her partner, Polish executive head chef Thomas Cimek – a big title for a bijou-size biz.

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